Choosing the right capacity for an air-to-water heat pump is crucial for efficient heating in your home. If the heat pump is too small, it won't be able to meet heating demands on the coldest days. If it's too large, it will be more expensive than necessary and may cycle on and off frequently, reducing efficiency and lifespan. In this article, we will explain the basic principles of how to estimate a building's heat demand and thus the required heat pump capacity. We will illustrate what to look out for through simple example calculations. Following this, we will delve deeper into the topic: discussing heat demand calculation (using W/m² indicator), the COP and SCOP values of heat pumps, and how the design is influenced by the buffer tank, domestic hot water (DHW) demand, and backup heating. All of this will be discussed with the Hungarian climate in mind, so you can confidently select the right heat pump for your home.
What size heat pump is needed for a family house? The basics
The required heat pump capacity primarily depends on the building's heating demand – that is, how much heat loss needs to be compensated for in the winter cold. Many factors influence this simultaneously. Below, we summarize the most important considerations that determine what size heat pump is needed for a family house:
Building heat demand (heat loss): Every building has an estimated heat loss, which can be expressed in Watts. This indicates how much heating power is needed to maintain a constant internal temperature during the coldest weather. The greater the building's heat loss, the larger the capacity of the heat pump required for heating. Heat loss is influenced by the thermal insulation of walls, windows, ceilings, and ventilation. It is often given in the form of W/m² or W/m³ (demand per square meter or per cubic meter of air), making estimation easier. For example, for an average insulated building, we can often calculate with a heating demand of 50 W/m², but for poor insulation, this can be as high as 80–100 W/m², while for a modern, energy-efficient house it might be as low as 30–40 W/m², and for a passive house, only ~10 W/m². This is a huge difference – the peak heating demand for a 100 m² passive house is only ~1 kW, while for a similar sized, uninsulated old house, it can be as much as 8–10 kW!
Condition of insulation and openings: The building's heat demand is primarily determined by the quality of thermal insulation. Thickly insulated walls, modern windows, and doors allow less heat to escape, so less capacity may be sufficient for heating. In contrast, an old, uninsulated house will require significantly greater heating capacity to compensate for heat escaping through walls and windows. For example, a family house built in the 1980s that has not been subsequently insulated may require up to twice as much energy for heating as a modern, well-insulated building of the same floor area.
Heated floor area and ceiling height: The size of the space to be heated matters. Houses with a larger floor area or multiple stories naturally require more heat. Ceiling height is also important: the volume of air to be heated counts. A 100 m² house with normal ceiling height (2.7 m) has a much lower heating demand than a civil house of the same floor area but with a 4-meter ceiling height. Therefore, when choosing the heat pump's capacity, the internal cubic meter (m³) should also be considered in addition to the square meter. As a rule of thumb, it is often assumed that approximately ~50 Watts are needed to heat 1 m³ of air volume in an average case – this, of course, varies depending on the insulation.
Difference between external and internal temperature: The colder it is outside, the more heat the building loses to its surroundings. Therefore, for design, we usually take the design outdoor temperature as a basis – in Hungary, the lowest design temperature is typically -12…-15°C (depending on the climatic zone). The desired internal temperature, for example, is +22°C, so for calculation, we use a temperature difference of ~34–37°C. If the outdoor cold is less severe (e.g., only -5°C), the heat demand is proportionally lower; however, in extreme cold, the required heating power increases sharply. Therefore, when selecting a heat pump, it is necessary to consider that the unit must have sufficient capacity even on the coldest days – or provide for supplementary heating. (Note: Hungarian winters are generally milder than what the -15°C design assumes. On average winter days, temperatures are between 0 and -5°C, which requires less heating energy, but for safety, the unit must perform even on rarer cold days.)
Beyond the main factors above, it is worth mentioning the type of heating system. The same building operating with low-temperature underfloor heating requires a lower flow water temperature than with radiator heating. This affects the heat pump's efficiency (COP) – but more on that later. The required heat output itself depends on the house's heat loss, not the type of heating elements. However, if there are radiators and the house can only be heated with higher water temperatures, the heat pump's nominal capacity may decrease due to the high temperature (because the unit's efficiency deteriorates). In such cases, choosing a slightly larger capacity model may be justified to ensure the desired temperature can be provided.
Simple example calculation for an average house
To understand the basic principles, let's look at a simple example. Let's assume we have a 120 m² family house. Let's roughly determine how many kW of heating power might be needed to heat this house at different insulation levels:
- Well-insulated, newly built house – specific heat demand approx. 40 W/m²: 120 m² x 40 W = 4800 W, i.e., ~4.8 kW heating demand.
- Family house with average insulation – heat demand approx. 60 W/m²: 120 m² x 60 W = 7200 W, i.e., ~7.2 kW required.
-
Older, poorly insulated house – heat demand approx. 80 W/m²: 120 m² x 80 W = 9600 W, i.e., ~9.6 kW estimated peak load.
It can be seen that the heat demand of the same house varies drastically depending on the quality of insulation (~5 kW vs. ~10 kW). This calculation is, of course, simplified, but it gives a good approximation. Based on the example, we can say that for a house around 120 m² with average insulation in Hungary, a heat pump with a capacity of approx. 6–8 kW is needed for heating. If the house is older (has no or minimal insulation), then up to 10–12 kW might be justified. Important: always leave some reserve capacity after the calculations. A small oversizing (e.g., +10-20%) ensures that the equipment will not operate at its performance limit even on the coldest days. However, excessive oversizing should be avoided, as it can reduce the heat pump's efficiency at partial loads.
Up to this point, we have dealt with estimating the basic heating demand in a simplified manner. Next, let's go a step further and look in more detail at the professional side of sizing and other influencing factors.
Detailed calculation of heat demand (W/m² approach)
The basis of accurate heat demand calculation is similar to building energy calculations: it takes into account the heat transfer of all cooling structures (walls, floor, ceiling, windows) and ventilation heat loss. For a full calculation, the U-value (W/m²K) of each structure, its surface area, and the design temperature difference must be known. Based on these, it can be calculated how many Watts of heat escape from the house under given temperature conditions – this is what needs to be compensated by heating.
However, as a layman, such detailed data is rarely at hand. Therefore, simplified calculations and rules of thumb, such as the aforementioned Watt per square meter method, have become widespread. The essence of this is that starting from the building's type and age, a specific heat demand value (W/m²) can be estimated, which, when multiplied by the heated floor area, gives the approximate heat demand. For such an estimate, the following guidelines can be used:
- Modern, well-insulated house (built after 2020): ~30–40 W/m² heating demand.
- House with average insulation (2000s or retrofitted older): ~50–60 W/m².
- Old uninsulated or minimally insulated house: ~80–100 W/m² (or even more in extreme cases).
It can be seen that there can be up to a 3x difference between the best and worst cases. If you are unsure about your building's insulation category, it is worth consulting a professional or using a heat demand calculator. Online calculators are also available that provide an estimate of the required heating power by entering a few data points (wall type, insulation thickness, floor area, etc.). However, always bear in mind that these are only estimates – detailed calculations are needed for accurate design.
Brief calculation method: The design engineer determines the design temperature difference (e.g., ΔT = 22°C internal and -15°C external, i.e., 37°C). Then, they sum up the cooling surfaces of the building and their heat transfer coefficients. For each structure, they calculate the loss occurring at the given temperature difference (A × U × ΔT). They add up the transmission losses and add the ventilation loss (which can be natural infiltration or heat loss from mechanical ventilation). The result is the total heat loss of the building in Watts. Dividing this by the floor area gives the W/m² value for that particular building. For example, if the calculated heat loss of a 150 m² house is 9000 W, then the specific demand is 9000/150 = 60 W/m² – which corresponds to an average insulated house.
Remember: when calculating heat demand, it is advisable to plan with a reserve. Generally, a 10-20% margin is applied so that the heat pump does not fall short even in extreme cold. In addition, if the heat pump also produces domestic hot water (DHW), this demand must also be included in the calculation – we will discuss this in detail below. Finally, based on the calculated capacity, we select the closest available nominal capacity unit on the market (heat pumps are typically offered in 6 kW, 8 kW, 10 kW, etc., categories).
COP and SCOP – what do they mean and why are they important?
Heat pump efficiency is primarily indicated by manufacturers using COP and SCOP values. These numbers do not directly affect heating performance, but understanding them is important for selecting and operating the right unit.
COP (Coefficient of Performance) – often referred to as efficiency or performance factor: This indicates how efficiently the heat pump converts absorbed electrical energy into thermal energy. Its value is the ratio of useful heat energy output to electrical energy consumed. For example, a COP = 4 means that with 1 kW of electrical power, the machine produces 4 kW of heating energy. The higher the COP, the more economically the heat pump operates (the less it consumes to produce a given amount of heat). The COP value is always given for a specific operating point – typically, the nominal COP is stated at an outdoor temperature of +7°C and a heating water temperature of 35°C (underfloor heating). Attention: if the weather is colder or a higher flow temperature is needed (e.g., 45-50°C for radiators), the instantaneous COP will be lower. Thus, the heat pump's efficiency decreases as the outdoor temperature drops, and its output power may also decrease in conjunction with this.
SCOP (Seasonal COP) – seasonal performance factor: SCOP represents the average efficiency over the entire heating season. It takes into account that the heat pump operates under various outdoor temperature conditions throughout the season. The SCOP value is an annual average COP that gives a more accurate picture of real long-term efficiency. For example, the SCOP value of a modern air-to-water heat pump in the Hungarian climate can be between ~3.5–4.5, which indicates very good efficiency (this also depends on whether it supplies underfloor heating or radiators). Heat pumps are classified into energy classes (e.g., A++, A+++) based on their SCOP value. Practically: a high SCOP value promises low heating costs throughout the year.
It is important to know that the stated nominal heating output usually corresponds to specific conditions (e.g., at an outdoor temperature of +7°C). For air-to-water heat pumps, as the outdoor temperature drops, the unit's heating capacity also decreases (unless it is an inverter-controlled unit, which can compensate to some extent, or a special T-CAP technology that maintains performance down to -20°C). Therefore, it is worth checking the unit's performance table: many manufacturers indicate that, for example, at -7°C, the heat pump only delivers ~80-90% of its nominal capacity. The COP value also drops drastically in cold weather (e.g., at -15°C, the unit may only perform at a COP of around 2-2.5). Due to this, when sizing, it is advisable to choose a model whose nominal capacity covers the heat demand with some reserve, or to be aware that in extreme cold, the unit will require supplementary heating (the built-in electric heater element will switch on). In summary: COP/SCOP values inform about the economic efficiency of the heat pump, but indirectly also influence the capacity selection, as a machine with a better COP will meet the same heating demand more cheaply, and a high SCOP model will remain efficient even in Hungarian winters.
Buffer tank – is it needed and how does it influence sizing?
A buffer tank is a water storage tank often integrated into heat pump heating systems. Its purpose is to store heat and equalize temperature fluctuations in the system. But how does this affect the selection of heat pump capacity?
Firstly, the buffer tank does not reduce the building's heat demand, so we cannot override the calculated kW value with it. What it does, however, is provide operational stability to the system. A heat pump works best when it can operate continuously for longer periods, rather than switching on and off every minute. During periods of lower heat demand (e.g., milder autumn days, or at night when it's less cold outside), the house's momentary heat demand may fall below the heat pump's minimum modulation capacity. In such cases, the unit would cycle on and off in short bursts. The buffer tank, however, buffers excess heat: the heat pump heats the water in the tank, then switches off, and the heating circuit draws heat from this hot water until it can no longer. This reduces cycling, which preserves the compressor and improves efficiency.
When is a buffer tank recommended? If the heat pump is oversized for the load (for example, because only a larger capacity model is available on the market for our needs, or we plan for future expansion), then it is definitely worth installing one. It is also recommended for underfloor heating systems, where the water temperature is low and the heat pump operates at very high efficiency – the buffer tank helps the heat pump operate for longer periods in optimal condition, even if the thermostat frequently closes the circuit with low heat loss. In addition, the buffer is useful during defrosting cycles: when the air-to-water heat pump defrosts its outdoor unit, it draws heat from the heating system. The buffer tank ensures that there is reserve heat, and the rooms do not experience a sudden drop in temperature.
Does it affect power requirements? Not directly, as the house's heat demand is given. Indirectly, however, it does, in that a system equipped with a buffer tank handles oversizing more tolerably. That is, if your calculated heat demand is 8 kW, and you choose a 10 kW heat pump (for example, because that type is available at a good price), then a buffer helps the 10 kW unit also operate efficiently, without issues related to minimal capacity. In summary: the buffer tank is a useful accessory that provides more stable operation and a longer lifespan for the heat pump, especially if the unit's size is not entirely ideal compared to the heat demand. The size of the buffer tank is typically matched to the heat pump's capacity (for example, 1–2 liters of buffer volume per kW of heating capacity is recommended as a minimum), but many designers prefer to use 50–100 liter or even larger buffers in family houses for better thermal stability.
Consideration of DHW demand (domestic hot water)
If the air-to-water heat pump not only heats but also produces domestic hot water (DHW), this must also be factored into the design. DHW production places an additional load on the heat pump, as energy must also be provided to heat the water in the boiler.
How to take this into account? One method is to simply add a safety percentage to the heating demand for DHW. A common recommendation is to allow approximately 20-30% extra capacity for hot water production. For example, if the house's heating demand is ~6 kW, then a 6 kW heat pump would be sufficient for heating only; but with DHW, it's better to choose a ~8 kW unit so that hot water production doesn't become a bottleneck. This, of course, does not mean that 2 kW of extra power is continuously needed for DHW, as water heating does not occur 24 hours a day. However, when the heat pump is heating the tank (a few times a day), it must dedicate capacity to this – and if it's also cold outside at that time, it must simultaneously meet both heating demand and water heating needs.
Solutions for DHW demand: Many heat pumps operate in a combined mode, meaning they switch from heating to DHW production and then back again. This is called a diverter valve solution, where the device uses a three-way valve to heat either the heating circuit or the DHW tank. In such cases, it is important that the heat pump can heat the DHW tank relatively quickly (typically within 1-2 hours) so that the radiators/underfloor heating do not cool down during this time. This is why a slightly higher output or a sufficiently large buffer tank is justified, which can heat the house during this time. As an alternative, some systems allow for parallel operation (if the control and performance allow), but alternating mode is more common.
Heat pumps integrated with DHW tank: Monobloc or split heat pumps are available on the market that have an integrated DHW tank (e.g., 180–300 liters). These are generally factory-tuned systems, and their nominal power is already specified to take into account DHW requirements. If you choose such an all-in-one solution, it is worth checking the manufacturer's recommendation for the floor area or number of occupants the model was designed for.
Legionella protection and high water temperature: DHW tanks sometimes need to be heated to a high temperature (above 60°C) to kill Legionella bacteria. Most heat pumps are efficient up to 50-55°C, above which their efficiency decreases. In such cases, an electric heating element often assists in heating the water. This also needs to be taken into account: the power of the built-in heating element (e.g., 3-6 kW) is essentially part of the auxiliary heating, and increases the load on our electrical network when operating. When sizing, it is important to assume that ideally the heat pump primarily heats the DHW itself, but there should be a backup with the heating element for peak demands or in case of malfunction.
Summary: If the heat pump provides hot water in addition to heating, choose a slightly larger model, or one specifically designed for combined operation. This way, you can be sure that on a cold winter evening, when the bath is full of hot water and it's -10°C outside, the unit can handle both tasks without any problems.
Auxiliary heating and backup – why might an additional heat source be needed?
Auxiliary heating (or supplementary heating) refers to an additional heat source that activates when the heat pump alone cannot provide the required heating power. This can take several forms:
- The most common is the heat pump's built-in electric heating element. Almost every air-to-water heat pump indoor unit has an electric heating element (typically 3, 6, or even 9 kW of power) that automatically switches on if the heat pump's compressor is running at maximum, but the heating still falls short of the desired temperature. This is also called bivalent or monoenergetic operation, where partly the heat pump and partly electric heating together provide the output in cold weather.
- Another heating system can serve as a backup, for example, if the old gas boiler remains or there is a fireplace. These can assist on very cold days.
- Even an electric boiler or infrared panels can serve as an emergency backup, if necessary.
Why is all this necessary? As mentioned earlier, in extremely cold weather, the efficiency and performance of the heat pump decrease. There may come a point (e.g., at -20°C) where the machine can no longer extract more heat from the outside air, or it is no longer economical to force it. In such cases, the built-in heating element automatically helps out. This ensures that the house is warm in all weather conditions, at most in this case the heating cost will temporarily be higher (because the element operates with a COP=1 efficiency, essentially as a simple electric heater).
Sizing strategy: The question arises as to whether the heat pump should be sized such that auxiliary heating is never needed? There are two approaches:
-
Sizing for total heat demand without backup: In this case, the heat pump alone can provide the heat demand that arises even in the coldest weather, say -15°C. The advantage of this is that, in principle, there is no need to resort to the more expensive electric element, the heat pump is always sufficient. The disadvantage is that in this case, the appliance will be underloaded for 90% of the year, as its peak performance is only rarely required. This can mean higher investment costs and potentially more on/off cycles, unless there is a buffer.
- Optimized sizing with auxiliary heating: Here, the capacity of the heat pump is chosen such that it independently covers, say, 70-80% of the heat demand, and the element only assists during the coldest hours. This means that the appliance operates more frequently within its efficiency range, it is not too large, but a few days may have to be endured partly with resistance heating. Since these very cold periods account for a small percentage of the heating season's operating time, the overall annual efficiency (SCOP) is barely reduced if the element occasionally helps. In return, a smaller (cheaper) machine can be purchased.
In Hungary, the latter solution is also popular, as extreme cold (e.g., below -20°C) rarely occurs here. If a heat pump, for example, fully covers the heating of the house down to -7°C, and below that the heating element switches on, this can be a reasonable compromise. The key is that the control is set correctly, and the heating element only runs when absolutely necessary. With good planning, the auxiliary heating will account for a small fraction of the annual consumption.
Auxiliary heating in practice: The control of modern heat pumps is intelligent – for example, it can be set at what outside temperature the electric assistance is allowed. Furthermore, the system monitors whether the heat pump alone reaches the set room temperature. If not, after a certain time, it switches on the auxiliary heating. As a user, you don't really have to do anything about this, you just need to know that this mechanism exists. However, it is also worth checking whether your electrical network can handle it when the heat pump and the element are running simultaneously (e.g., an ~8 kW heat pump compressor consumes about 2 kW of electrical power at peak, plus the 6 kW element – meaning a total of 8 kW can occur, which is a current draw of over 35 Amperes at 230 V). If you combine the heat pump with a solar panel system, the consumption of the auxiliary heating can be partly offset by your own production, but don't rely too much on this during very cold, gloomy winter days.
Examples for different sized houses
Finally, let's look at some specific examples of what size heat pump is typically recommended for properties of different sizes and characteristics. These assume that the heat pump provides both heating and DHW, and are sized for the average climate in Hungary (min. -12..-15°C).
100 m², newly built family house (with modern insulation): The heating demand is approx. 4–5 kW. A heat pump around 6 kW is sufficient for this, which also handles hot water production. (For example, a 5 kW nominal power machine could also handle it, but the 6 kW provides some reserve.) The smaller power is also better because it modulates better at low loads – a 6 kW machine in a well-insulated house
150 m², average insulated house: The heat demand is approximately 9–10 kW peak power. A 10 or 12 kW heat pump is recommended here. For example, a 10 kW nominal power model will operate at ~5-8 kW for most of the heating season, and the heating element may switch on on cold days. If lack of backup is important, a 12 kW type can also be chosen, so there will certainly be no problem even in the greatest cold.
200 m², older family house (with subsequent insulation): Here, the heat demand can reach 15 kW during the coldest period. For such a demand, usually the highest power monobloc or split heat pumps (around 16 kW) are needed. Often these are already 3-phase machines due to the high current draw. A 16 kW heat pump will run at partial load on normal winter days, but its full capacity will be needed during cold hours. For heat demands greater than this (~above 20 kW), it is worth considering connecting two heat pumps in parallel (cascade system), or involving other heating methods, because air-to-water heat pumps rarely go above 16-18 kW in a single unit in the residential segment.
Apartment in a multi-story building, small floor area (around 50 m²): Here, typically 2–3 kW heating demand arises with good insulation. Air-to-water heat pumps can also be used for such low power requirements (even 3-5 kW units), but other solutions (e.g., electric heating, air-to-air heat pump/air conditioning) may often be more economical due to investment costs. However, if a solution is sought for central heating of several small apartments or a multi-apartment house, an ~8-10 kW heat pump can supply several apartments, provided that the heat distribution system and control are designed for it.
Of course, every property is unique. The above examples are for informational purposes only. Always take into account the parameters of your own house and, if possible, consult an expert for accurate sizing. In Hungary, the heat demand of most average-sized family houses (100-150 m²) is between 5 and 10 kW, so the most common heat pump models are in the 6, 8, 10 kW categories. For larger, less well-insulated houses, 12-16 kW units may be considered. Above this range, industrial or special solutions are needed.
Considering the Hungarian climate
When sizing a heat pump, it is impossible to disregard the climatic conditions. Hungary's temperate continental climate comes with relatively cold winters and warm summers, but fortunately, extreme fluctuations rarely occur. What does this mean in practice when selecting a heat pump?
Winter conditions: As already mentioned, in our country, the design outdoor temperature is mostly between -11 and -15°C. This means that designers usually calculate the necessary heating power for -15°C (this ensures safety, as it is rarely colder than this). In Budapest, for example, the design value is approximately -13°C, while in the valleys of the Northern Central Mountains, it can be even below -15°C. When selecting a heat pump, it is therefore advisable to check how much power the unit can deliver at -15°C. Many modern units can still provide ~70-80% of their nominal capacity at -15°C. There are specifically cold-climate models (e.g., Mitsubishi Zubadan, Panasonic T-CAP series) that maintain their nominal power even at -20°C, but these are generally more expensive. It is important that in the Hungarian winter, average temperatures between -5 and +5°C dominate during the heating season, where heat pumps are highly efficient. The high SCOP values (around 4) are also based on this average climate.
Summer conditions (cooling): Most air-to-water heat pumps are also capable of cooling operation, circulating cold water (e.g., into fan coils or underfloor/ceiling cooling systems). In Hungary, heatwaves of 35-38°C also occur in summer, but for a heat pump sized for heating, the cooling task usually does not pose a problem. This is because the cooling load is typically smaller than the heating load (especially in well-insulated houses). For example, a 120 m² house may require 8 kW for heating, but only 4-5 kW for cooling in summer (as summer heat load is partly reduced by shading, night ventilation, and internal heat generation is not as high). So, a properly selected heat pump will serve the cooling needs without problems. It is more important to ensure that condensation management and control are adequate for cooling (obvious for fan coils, and thermostatic control is necessary for underfloor cooling to avoid the dew point).
Operating experience in Hungary: In Hungarian conditions, users of air-to-water heat pumps report that the machines heat independently without problems for 97-99% of the year, and auxiliary heating only switches on during a few very cold nights or mornings, if at all. A significant reduction in electricity consumption compared to traditional heating is also typical, especially if the system is well sized and set up. The Hungarian climate is classified as "Average" in the EU for energy calculations – a good SCOP value here, say 4, would only achieve an SCOP of around 3 in a colder northern country, and potentially over 5 in a warmer climate. This also shows that our climate is an ideal environment for heat pump application: winters are cold, but not arctic cold, and summers are warm, where the cooling function of the appliance can be utilized.
Summary advice tailored to the climate: Choose a heat pump whose manufacturer-specified operating range covers outdoor temperatures of -20°C to +35°C. This guarantees that you will not be surprised in either winter or summer. Check the performance curves: many brochures show the capacity of the machine at -7°C or -15°C. If these values meet the needs of your building (possibly with a little assistance), then the heat pump will be suitable for Hungarian conditions. If the capacity is very finely balanced, it is better to go up one size or prepare for auxiliary heating. Fortunately, most modern appliances today are oversized relative to older ones – meaning a current 8 kW machine can often deliver 10+ kW under more favorable temperature conditions, and only drops back to nominal at the very end.
Recommended air-to-water heat pump models (examples)
Once you have determined the required capacity, it is worth looking at specific products. Our range includes air-to-water heat pumps from many renowned manufacturers. Here are some examples tailored to different size requirements:
-
Gree Versati IV Monobloc 6 kW – An affordable, compact monobloc heat pump, ideal for heating well-insulated family houses of approx. 80–110 m² floor area. It is capable of both heating and cooling, and a DHW tank can be connected to it. A quiet and easy-to-install unit with excellent value for money.
-
Daikin Altherma 3 Split 8 kW – A premium category, split system heat pump from Daikin, recommended for medium-sized properties of 100–150 m². High efficiency (A+++ energy class), with intelligent control and weather-dependent regulation. Reliable Japanese technology, proven to operate at -20°C. It has a built-in 6 kW auxiliary electric heater for extreme cold days.
-
Panasonic Aquarea High Performance 9 kW (Split version) – Panasonic Aquarea series heat pumps are known for their reliability and high COP values. This 9 kW model is an excellent choice for 120–170 m² average insulated family houses. It is also available in a T-CAP version, which guarantees the nominal 9 kW heating output even at -15°C ambient temperature. There is an option to choose an indoor unit with an integrated 185-liter DHW tank, so domestic hot water supply is fully solved in a single compact system.
- LG Therma V Monobloc 12 kW – A modern-looking monobloc heat pump with smart control from LG. Ideal as the main heating system for 150–200 m² larger or less well-insulated houses. Its advantages include built-in Wi-Fi-based remote control and monitoring, as well as extremely quiet operation (with reduced noise levels at night). It also works efficiently in cooling mode, making it useful in summer. The LG Therma V series is known for its reliable compressor and long lifespan, which is an important consideration for a large appliance.
The above models are just a taste of the selection. It is always advisable to consult our experts before making a final decision, as the capacity of the electrical network, the existing heating system, and installation possibilities (e.g., space requirements, noise level) must also be taken into account. With a good choice, the heat pump will be able to heat your home comfortably, economically, and environmentally friendly for many years.